Holds 27 x 6qt iris tubs
(with shelves out)
Outside 25″ W x 21″ L x 51″ H (with wheels)
Inside 22″W x 17″D x 46″H
Come’s with a VE-200 Thermostat
- If you are inquiring about a rate quote for shipping, please be sure to list the EXACT items you need shipped and your zip code.
We only to the lower 48 United States
Hot Box Incubators have a “false wall” that heats all the air in the incubator to the same temperature. The fan at the top pushes the air through the heating chamber and comes out the bottom. This eliminates hot spots in the incubation area. In home-made incubators, this lack of circulation creates hot spots where the air doesn’t get pushed around the tubs. This results in uneven temperatures in most areas of these incubators.
Hot box incubators feature an acrylic door for viewing your eggs without opening the door. Each time you open the door to an incubator to monitor your precious eggs, you lose most of the heat and humidity inside the incubator. Using a viewing window and low-wattage LED light you can monitor your eggs, heat, and humidity anytime, day or night, without opening the incubator.
Why we use acrylic?
Acrylic is seven times more impact resistant than glass. It is the safer option. Acrylic won’t break into tiny pieces, therefore reducing the possibility of injury and/or the loss of an incubator in a crucial time for your eggs. Acrylic also has better thermal properties and holds heat better than glass. Glass transmits heat 20% faster than acrylic, so you lose heat faster through a glass door.
Size to space ratio.
Relative to home-made incubators, our incubators hold more tubs in less space. Most home-made incubator are made from unsightly used refrigerators that not only take up a lot of space but are sometimes unreliable. Most do not have a window to monitor your eggs progress throughout the incubation period.
All incubators must be plugged into a thermostat.
Most racks and incubators ship out at least 4-6 weeks from time of order or final payment unless other arrangements have been made. BUSINESS DAYS DO NOT INCLUDE SAT, SUN, OR HOLIDAYS. Custom/larger orders may be slightly longer. We do our best to adhere to our shipping schedule. Also, it may be longer due to our show schedule or supply chain issues. You will receive an email confirmation from Fed Ex (sent to the email on your order) just prior to shipping. Messages regarding rack shipping status will not be returned
Any shipping charges for accessories (thermostats, etc) ordered at the same time as a rack may be refunded at time of shipping if they are able to ship with the rack
A thermostat or other heating control device MUST be used.
You cannot plug the rack directly into an outlet. The flexwatt heating element does get hot and you will run the risk of overheating your animals if no heating control is used. C Serpents Reptiles and Racks and/or the manufacturer of the heat tape (flexwatt) offer no warranties, whether expressed or implied on heat tape. Do not put any animals in your new C Serpents Rack until you have your thermostat set and the tub temperatures are correct.
The heating in a rack system is only meant to give the animal a warm spot to digest their food and thermoregulate their body temp.
The rest of the tub may be a few degrees warmer than the ambient temp of the room but probably not much more. If this is an issue and you need a warmer ambient tub temp (as is the case with colder climates, basements, etc) you should be heating your room.
A thermostat must be used to control the heat in our rack (or any rack system).
You can use one thermostat for multiple of the same rack system (up to the wattage capacity of the thermostat) but not for 2 different rack systems (unless the thermostat has 2 or more probes like the Vivarium VE 300 X2). For example, you run up to 6 of our sub-adult racks safely on one Vivarium VE 200 (700 watt capacity) since our sub-adult rack uses approximately 100 watts per rack. But you should not run a Vivarium VE 200 for 2 of our sub-adult racks and 2 V70 racks as the tub characteristics are different and they also use different wattage heat tape. But the Vivarium VE 300 X2 has 2 probes and therefore can run 2 different rack systems.
Our racks are engineered with enough gap between the tub and the shelf for a sufficient amount of air for your animal to breathe.
Holes only need to be drilled if you have a constant condensation problem in your tubs. Every environment is different. Some need to drill holes, some don’t.
Back screws are removed for shipping.
Screws can be re-installed with a basic Phillips head screwdriver (hand tighten only).
The little black dots.
The little black dots are supplied with your rack are self-adhesive screw covers.
Hatchling and shoebox racks come with a very thin piece of aluminum that covers the heat tape.
This is so the little “feet” on the tubs do not get caught on the recess in the shelf that the heat tape is set in. This creates a smooth sliding tub that also transfers the heat efficiently. You can put your probe directly on the aluminum cover or the heat tape with a piece of foil tape. On all other racks place the probe directly on the heat tape.
On any other racks, place the probe DIRECTLY on the heat tape of the middle shelf.
You can drill or even cut through the back panel with a razor knife as it is very soft and cuts with minimal effort (Please be very careful when doing so). You can also run the probe wire thru the front of the rack directly back to the heat tape. Either option is your choice and will work the same.
Check the heated area of the tubs with a digital temp gun before putting any animals into the tubs.
The thermostat is only a guide for a regulated heat range and the temp gun is extremely accurate.
Minor scratches can be covered with a little black shoe polish.
When stacking multiple racks of the same kind.
Only 2 wooden dowels are needed to hold them in place. Due to the manufacturing tolerances of the material all 4 dowels do not always line up exactly. Place the 2 wooden dowels either in opposite corners or both front or back to secure the stacked racks. Our racks are stackable on the same type of rack (2 V18 racks, 2 sub-adults, etc). They are drilled for dowel pins (which we provide) for ease of stacking and alignment.
A thermostat works just like the thermostat in your home.
It keeps the heat in your tubs at a pre-set temperature. If you had no thermostat on your home heating system you would bake yourself and burn out the heating element much faster.
There are 2 different types of thermostats.
- On/off thermostat. This type lets the heat tape get to just above the set temp then shuts off. When the temp of the heat tape falls below the set temp the thermostat will send power to the heat tape until it heats up again.
- Proportional. This type sends small pulses to the heat tape to keep the temp a bit more steady( which is not as crucial for rack systems but you should definitely use a proportional thermostat for incubators)
All thermostats do the same thing, control the heat.
Some have more options we like to call “bells and whistles”. They are not required but some people like them. Examples are Hi/Lo alarms, night drop, etc.
A thermostat must be used to control the heat in our rack (or any rack system).
You can use one thermostat for multiple of the same rack system (up to the wattage capacity of the thermostat) but not for 2 different rack systems (unless the thermostat has 2 or more probes like the Vivarium VE 300 X2). For example, you run up to 6 of our sub-adult racks safely on one Vivarium VE 200 (700 watt capacity) since our sub-adult rack uses approximately 100 watts per rack. But you should not run a Vivarium Ve 200 for 2 of our sub adult racks and 2 V70 racks as the tub characteristics are different and they also use different wattage heat tape. But The Vivarium VE 300 X2 has 2 probes and therefore can run 2 different rack systems.